Rattling On...

Omaha Beach...

About eighteen years ago we visited Normandy and went to Gold Beach near Arromanches. We also visited the American Cemetery which overlooks Omaha Beach. There was hardly anyone there and you weren't allowed to walk among the graves or take photos. How things have changed.

We made a second visit to the Normandy landing sites on our return trip to catch the ferry at Calais and decided to revisit the cemetery. There is now a visitor centre and a massive carpark, that was full.

There were hundreds of people wandering around, some looking for a particular grave, others a bit stupefied by it all. Many different nationalities. You can now approach the graves and take photos, this has lightened the atmosphere some and made it seem more peaceful if that makes any sense. 

I took photos of a few individual crosses, then decided to see if I could find out anything at all about the servicepeople who lay beneath them.

Elizabeth 'Liz' Richardson.

A woman who looks like she'd have been fun to be with. Click on the link for a little bio, or just Google her...

Hiawatha L E Perry, Bud to his friends...

There was a lot less to be found out about a man with such an impressive name, but still we can see what he looked like.

And there are many where the only thing to be found is a name on a list from army records. The power of the internet is awe-inspiring.

We also went to the German cemetery and other noteable places on the same coast. It's always good to be able to make an experience more personal, even if the people involved have no actual connection with me they are still important to me, my past and my future.

Years ago, on that beach in Normandy my Mother (yes, we took her on holiday once and only once) told us off for flying a kite with No1 who was just a toddler. I was having none of that. Men and women fought and died so that we can fly kites on beaches.

Carnac

Yes, we went to Carnac for our break. This is the view from the hotel window, a hotel! We've always rented little houses in the past but it was nice for a change, and was the first time we'd been there.

Carnac is quite small and very French. By that I mean that most of the holidaymakers are French and not much of any other language is spoken there. 

It's also a place where people go to do things. Running, swimming, sailing... no-one stays still very long. Our hotel was attached to a spa which was enormously busy. There was an indoor saltwater pool which I really enjoyed.

The weather was mixed. Misty mornings and hot afternoons on the whole, with one very rainy (but still warm) morning. This makes for exploring walks followed by the beach. And a couple of trips out to Vannes and Lorient, both places we know well.

The area is known for the production of oysters. We went to a restaurant one evening and sat next to a young French couple. They didn't speak much, were on Facebook most of the time and were eating... to start they had oysters. Ten for her and twenty for him... next he had a massive steak and chips, she had moules frites (bowl of mussels with chips)... then he had a large calzone pizza, she just had another cigarette. Do not tell me that their metabolisms are somehow genetically different to ours.

The beaches were also the shelliest I have ever seen. More shells than sand, especially oyster shells. I didn't find any pearls, but I did look!

Now, I have to tell you about one beach experience I had. We were situated in front of a group of young locals, all wearing Save the World type clothing. Which is not a criticism, just an observation. And pertinent I feel to what came next. The young woman got out a pair of tweezers and proceeded to pluck her legs. Spent all afternoon on the task. Made me feel quite guilty for the electric my epilator squanders...

Le Maire de la ville de Vannes...

I love Vannes, and whilst on holiday we went there for a day out. The Maire (sort of Town Hall affair) is always beautifully presented, but this year the gardens were a real surprise. Stunning...

It's tempting to think I might have a go at something similar next year, but I fear much planning would be involved. And of course there's the matter of the weather.

It's raining here...

Added later: I've just re-discovered this post, which has a (bad) photo of the gardens (or at least a tiny bit of them) in 2008.

Ampelmann

I love it when ordinary things have been re-designed to make them a little less everyday. I was delighted to find, when we went to Berlin, that the traffic crossings had a special little man on them to indicate how safe it was to cross.

When I went to New York years ago I spent an entire day in search of a toothbrush that I'd read about. It was ergonomically designed and lovely to look at. I found one, and bought it even though I could only get blue. I have a green toothbrush, always. I never used the brush but, sadly, in one of our many house moves it was lost. Which does not mean it isn't in a box somewhere...

On our travels through the city I discovered Ampelmann is a bit of an icon. There is even an on-line shop with fun things like this. And you thought the Germans didn't have a sense of humour?

I didn't knit this one...

Eldest daughter has been on the lookout for a retro style scarf. On my travels I have been snapping up anything I thought fitted the description she had given.

It's not easy to interpret someone else's vague ideas and there have been rejects. This 50s/60s long rectangular offering being just such a one. It was a...

Never having been there myself I can't say whether the scarf has an accurate image, or whether the palm trees are such a charming shade of blue. However, I have been to...

...on more than one occasion. And I can categorically state that I have never seen the giant jelly mould anywhere in the city.

I like it, I'm keeping it for myself!

Any colour as long as it's gold.

This may very well be the last of the fun from Berlin, but I thought we'd finish on a bright (one may even say garish) note.

This is a picture of a shop window that was not untypical. I think you're unlikely to find such a display in this country, though in Russia it would be considered subtle and modest.

What is it with rococo?  So much going on in each item, and all liberally clad in gold. Or at least a simulation of such. You want a closer look?

I can see it now... The English Picnic. Layby, fold out chairs and table, Thermos flask, sweaty sandwiches and... the golden picnic hamper! A must have for all serious outdoor types. No-one would stare, I'm sure.

At this point I will say this is all a matter of personal taste and if you're the proud owner of just such a set, or indeed a rococo revival mansion, then enjoy. It's just not for me. So don't send hate mail, please.

Anyhow, if you want a gold conch shell, gold stacking pineapples or gold plated fruit bowl, then I can recommend a good shop...

The train now leaving...

Our Hotel was on Friedrichstrasse, very close to Checkpoint Charlie, and there was a U Bahn station (Metro, Underground) almost on the doorstep (Kochstrasse) but we didn't use it for the first two days as we like to walk and take in everything.

However, on the Sunday the blisters were really making themselves known so we decided to give the rail system a try-out. The first thing we noticed was that virtually everything is automated and seems to be run on an honesty system. You buy a ticket and get it validated at a machine, then you get on a train. You don't have to show it, scan it or open any barriers. Maybe they do spot checks, but we didn't see anyone showing a ticket at any point. I think we overpaid, but just kept pressing away at buttons until we got some tickets.

Then we decided to go a little further, thus requiring a trip on the S Bahn, which is a light railway that runs overground but still does short trips.

Now, these stations are temples of glass, but with a strangely Victorian air about them. One thing I loved was the escalators. When no-one is on them they stop, a sensor as you get on sets them off again. The lights in the hotel corridor were similar and went off behind as you walked along. Berlin is a very modern eco city.

Again, no-one asked to see a ticket, and by this time we'd amassed a few. I think one would have done, but better safe than sorry, right? The trains are clean and on time. The stations are not as easy to negotiate as the Moscow or Paris Metro , but easier than London where a confusing selection of trains use the same lines. We only had one hold up where a line turned out to be closed but a polite notice in German was the only indicator.

My German is basic to say the least, but I was surprised how much I understood. Many people speak (very good) English, many appear not to speak a word. In the Deutsches Historisches Museum (where we went to see the Hitler Exhibition ) no-one seemed to speak English which seemed odd as it was heaving with all manner of foreigners who all seemed to have English as a second language. Don't get me wrong, I certainly don't expect anyone to speak to me in my own language when I'm not in my own country, it's just unusual in a museum. We both speak basic French and my Russian is good so we can always give them a go!

But I digress... as we got off the last train a man got on with a lovely black dog (dogs are allowed everywhere) and on his shoulder was a white cockatiel... where's the camera when you need it?

Streetlife.

On Sunday morning, finding the shops to be closed (aaarrggggh!!), we went in search of the flea market at the Tiergarten. This bloke, in the marvellous felted pixie-hat, was on the pavement just in front of the market. He also had a perky little dog who ran in and out of the small crowd watching.

I could have watched for hours, no idea why. MrH wandered away a little, his attention caught by something, and was looking the other way. A very large bubble was floating his way and just before it popped all over him a lady stuck out her hand and dealt with it. Everyone was laughing and he had no clue why.

It wasn't a particularly big market but the stalls were very well stocked and it was heaving with people, mostly locals. The end of the 'tourist season' is the 31st October, all the museums close after then... and Sunday was the 31st so there weren't many tourists. The Christmas markets start in the middle of November, and then some department stores also open so people can do their Christmas shopping.

There were some vintage decorations available, but they looked too delicate to ram into our one tiny suitcase. Especially as we bought another item at the market. It's cast iron and you'll have to wait to see what it is. My hand luggage was already full of chocolate teddies and advent calendars. I love Christmas souvenirs! Prices weren't extortionate.

Further along there was a designer/artist market. There was a lot of leather work, knitting and felting. Again it all seemed to be local and of really good quality.

I you don't want to walk or take a Trabi safari you can always hire an open horse-drawn carriage. The horses were lovely and had the most amazing studded shoes.

Or there's always the Beer Bike (top left). Punters pedal power the vehicle while the barman steers and pulls pints of beer. You could hear it coming form miles away. Rowdy! They should have had more pretzels to soak up the beer. I love pretzels, the salty ones, and bought some back for the girls who loved them as well.

As we'd waited until Sunday to go shopping, we didn't come back with much. I never thought to check something like that as most big cities are open pretty much seven days a week these days. We just had a more leisurely day and visited a couple more cafes. (Einstein cafe on Unter den Linden is particularly good. Breakfast was amazing.)

Rachel left a comment yesterday about her Mother having been stationed in Berlin right after the war (she didn't say why, but I'm thinking espionage or border guard??). I can't imagine how it must have been but I think she'd approve of it now. It has a good atmosphere.

A bit more Berlin...

 Although reunification happened over ten years ago, Berlin still has a lot of open spaces that are a product of bombing in the Second World War. In some information we read it said that German women between the ages of 15 and 50 had to clean up rubble after the war so that the material could be re-used. 75% of the rubble was recycled into new buildings.

There is still a lot of evidence of shell and bullet damage that has been patched. Some buildings are now fusions of old and new, like the church (bottom right) which still has the wrecked steeple and a new glass tower and main body. These are built from blue glass blocks and I didn't find them attractive or sympathetic. Maybe that was the point.

There are still some old buildings, but not as many as in other European capitals. Some are the only one on a street, surrounded by brand new temples to modern design. Our hotel had a lovely old facade, but the real building behind was completely new. 

The Brandenburg Gate and surroundings was almost completely destroyed, and then in a bit of a non-state when the Wall was up. Now it has been repaired but all the buildings forming the rebuilt courtyard are new. Most of them are embassies, with the US being the first, and adjoining the gate. 

This also means McDonalds, Dunkin Donuts and Starbucks are a mere stone's throw away. We didn't visit any of them...

There is a lot of construction still going on. Roads are dug up to replace cables and utility supplies and new apartments are being built. Another thing that is noticeable is the trees. They are all quite young and not fully developed. This is because what weren't burnt in the bombing were cut down in the wartime winters for fuel. In a few more years they'll be back to strength and maybe all the better for a culling. It must have been very bleak without them.

Some of the buildings look old (bottom right) but are replicas. Others are zanily modern. There is a lot of glass everywhere, especially in Potzdam Platz which is virtually all new (top right). The railway stations are amazing, but I'll save train pictures for another day.

If I'm really honest I don't know whether I like all the modern stuff or not. The problem for me is that it's not confined to a few new developments as it is in other cities. It's everywhere, through necessity I suppose, but I'm rather a fan of the old stuff...

Glucklich zu sehen!

Berlin is one of those cities where you must keep an eye out for hidden things of real interest. The pictures above are all sites that would be missed were you not looking downwards.

The double row of bricks follows the line of the former Berlin Wall and cuts across roads and paths as the wall did.

The small brass plaques are called Solpersteine and are set into the pavements in front of buildings (or the site of bombed out buildings) where a person, or people, who died at the hands of the Nazis in the Holocaust was last resident. Solperstein means stumbling block and they are in many places that were occupied.

The grid cover is designed with places of interest in Berlin on it. Such a good idea. All these things in their way sum up the city. So much history seeping through, and so much to be sorrowful about. But there is much being done to be open and honest about the past, and many people are interested and fascinated by its history.

You have to look up as well...

The streetlights are, for the most part, modern. But some great old examples still remain here and there. Bottom left is one of the lamps that lit the no-man's land between East and West inside the Wall, and bottom right is from near the Tiergarten. These were designed by Albert Speer, Hitler's personal architect. Almost all of his work has been destroyed, for obvious reasons, and exists only as photos or drawings.

We did a lot of walking on our trip, with a couple of guidebooks and a great interest between us. I like to look at, and for, the less obvious things, but we did go to museums and such. More of which later.

The weather was great. Warmish and dry. My packing was perfect. For once. I think it would be a very dreary place to visit in the rain. The only real problem I had was my feet. I took a well worn and broken in pair of leather boots for tramping around. I have never had blisters before, but I have some incredible ones on the bottoms of my feet, especially on the base of my heels. Nothing rubbed, my feet weren't hot and I walk a lot. So I have no idea why I have developed them, on both feet. Also on one finger of my left hand. Weird. 

Thanks for all the comments that were left while I was away. I'll try to respond asap. Still trying to sort all the photos, go to work, do the washing.......

Getting away from it all.

This is a ghost-post. All being well MrH and I are away for the weekend.

The only stress related to this kind of city break is the packing. What to take. I have been checking the weather reports daily. Being under or over layered whilst trying to have a good time can be dreadful. As can carrying a load of unnecessary clothes/ umbrellas/ shoes.

And then there's the hand/check-in luggage debate. Last year we went to Stockholm and I took very little, but chose well and didn't feel deprived at all. But... you can't bring much back if you only have cabin luggage.

Here's hoping I made all the right decisions. I'll let you know. Tomorrow (and possibly Monday as I'm back at work early doors) will also be pre-scheduled posts. Then I'll hopefully have some pictures that don't have fungi in them. But then again...

Over 90% water...

Yesterday I spent another four hours in the car. This time, as at the same time last year, collecting No1 and a friend from the V Festival at Weston Park in Staffordshire. The traffic was horrendous.

They were sunburned, tired out and covered in mud, just as it should be after a good festival! It had rained torrentially all the previous night. An unknown reveller had fallen onto their tent and broken some poles, ripping fabric and meaning they'd had to duct tape one side together. Duct tape is always an essential when packing for a festival. It had done the job and they were, for the most part, dry.

I had sneaked out early to get a run on the car jams, and on our return home I went out to see to the greenhouse, and harvested four of the most grotesquely large cucumbers I've ever seen. One of them is incredible, I'd kept it on the plant to see just how big it would grow but I thought it might not stand the weight much longer. There are still several growing away nicely in there as well.

Now, we like cucumber, we really do. But I don't know why we have three plants. There's only so much you want to eat so after giving my parents one when they popped in, I spent a while looking for recipes. Ummm, not myriad but there are a few.

Anyway, when the fruits (Because they developed from a flower I believe they are technically fruit...) were sitting on the table immediately after being cut from the plant, I noticed the water leaking back out of the stem. I got some on my finger to have a sample and guess what? It tastes of cucumber.

Trying to do a re-creation.

When we were in Dublin we had our last meal at Carluccio's. I had Penne alla Luganica. I don't like choosing from menus, I think this stems partly from the fact that as children and teenagers we weren't really taken out to eat and if we were then often my parents chose for us.  So, when a menu is plonked in front of me I have a hard time, plus I dread ordering the duff dish.

I often have the same things at the same places time after time. Same pizza, same curry... and so on. Anyway, the penne arrived and it was wonderful. Creamy sauce and a hint of spicy bite. MrH had a chicken concoction that he pronounced too salty. I think he may have been angling for a swap but I scoffed all mine.

On arriving home I looked in the bookshop for a Carluccio cookery book and there were several, but containing loads of the sort of food that I enjoy looking at pictures of but that no-one would thank me for putting in front of them at dinner. So I searched on-line. It took a long time but I eventually found it hidden away in a financial statement of all places. It's on page 24 and there are a couple of other recipes as well.

Of course, we don't have an Italian deli hereabouts so the Luganica sausage was a no-go but I used pork mince instead, and our pasta was gluten free.

And I have to say it was very good indeed.

How green you are...

I like anything to do with Post Offices and Post boxes, I may have mentioned this previously, and not just on that occasion either.

Imagine the thrill on reaching Dublin to find they have C type boxes in the most wonderful shade of green...

Of course they also have the more usual one slot boxes as well...

And then there is the nod to modernisation, which I'm not that keen on myself being a post box purist...

As I was loitering round this box to get a people-free shot (it was busy) a young woman came along. She was carrying an interesting looking chocolate cake in a rectangular flattish box, it had curls of white chocolate on top. I gave it a good look. Anyway, she reached out the cake to the letter box and I really thought she was going to put it through the slot. My mind was screaming 'No! It'll never get there.' But she placed the cake carefully on top and posted some letters.

I was once talking to a local shop owner here and explaining my love of post boxes. He said he'd heard of someone else who liked them and he had a collection of manhole-cover photos as well. Perish the thought.

Er, so do I.

Howth, Co. Dublin

Howth is a small fishing village about nine or so miles north of Dublin. It's also a yachting port and there are hundreds of vessels of all shapes and sizes moored there.

There are other attractions such as a bird sanctuary and a lighthouse. Not to mention the  enormous seagulls knocking about on the quayside, scrounging fish from the men who were mending their nets.

Along the Quayside are fish shops and restaurants, catering to trade, public and the yachting fraternity. Some of the shops were selling buckets of fish bits (post filleting) for a small charge, and the reason why they were doing this was the highlight of the day if not the trip for me. 

The little port had some visitors...

And just for good measure, a few more pictures...I could have stayed and watched them all day. They were watching us very closely as well...