Yesterday we went to Calke Abbey. It was heaving it down with rain when we set off, very windy and 2oC. The house is just over 50 miles away and it was a horrendous drive, the roads flooded and littered with bits of tree-some of them quite large. We carried on undaunted thinking it was bound to be better when we got there.
Wrong. Well, it was three degrees warmer but just as windy and rainy. They'd delayed opening the house, and the church and gardens were closed 'due to the weather'. So, don't expect any pictures of the outside of the house, for those you'll have to click on the link and look at some ones taken in lovely sunshine!
Here, then, is a picture tour of the stately home abandoned in the early 1920s and left since then exactly as it was (sort of, explanations to follow)...
You first enter the working part of the yard, with stables and smithy...
After the working yard you meander through a bit of woodland towards the front of the house. I imagine in fine weather it's lovely, there are bluebells and what I think were cowslips but we didn't hang around...
Now we get into the house. It was gloomy and bloody freezing, not much Downton Abbey going on here. This must have been what it was really like back in the day when electric lights and central heating were but fantasies, because there's little of either. The house really has been kept as it was when handed to the National Trust in the 80s. Everything was catalogued and photographed and put back where it was found. The decision was made to keep it as a little slice of time, a country house in decay.
However, it was a little unsound and was going rotten with damp. So some structural work was done, and rot eradicated. Ceilings had to be replaced and even the original cracks were replicated when the new ones were put back in! Wallpaper was taken down, cleaned to kill the damp, and rehung. Hover over pictures for a brief explanation-if there is one...
The house is stuffed with stuff, the family over the generations were avid collectors, to the point of it becoming a problem. The last in the line was obsessed with taxidermy and if he couldn't shoot it himself he bought it in. Not to my taste.
The paintwork is scuffed, the carpets worn, someone loved the colour red- it's all over the place. The girls liked it here, after seeing Mr Straw's House I thought I'd love it as well. But I was lukewarm. Maybe the appalling weather affected the viewing, on a sunny day it would all look different, but then it was raining when we went to Mr Straw's as well. It just didn't have such a human feel to it for me, though it's fascinating all the same.
As things have gone rusty, dusty and mouldy (albeit if it's been cleaned and 'fake' cobwebs put back...really!) so has the house lost some soul. It doesn't, on the whole, look like the family are out for the day and may return at any moment. It's more like a creepy film set. Left me a little depressed to tell the truth.
The restaurant is ok and the grounds look amazing, we'll go back to see those and the church when the weather plays ball. As we left, after first taking a worng turn and driving up to the front of the house (whoops, but the attendant just laughed) we had to go over a cattle grid. It was overflowing with rain water and could just have been a big hole for all we knew.
We listened to the Disney CD in the car and sang along to all our favourites. Supercalafragilistic, expialidocious....

